Prioritizing People: The Key to Exceptional Wine Production

While great wine begins in the vineyard, the people behind it play an equally vital role in its success. The question arises: can wine be considered exceptional if the producers aren’t prioritized and supported?

Wine businesses deeply influence the communities in which they reside. Economic challenges directly affect these companies, impacting workers and their families significantly. This reality is acutely felt in South America, particularly within Argentina's wine industry.

Taking Bodega Norton as a sobering example, one of Argentina's oldest and largest wineries went into administration last December, burdened by over $40 million in debt. Persistent inflation and declining wine sales contributed to its downfall, illustrating that the health of a winery is as precarious as that of the vines it cultivates.

This situation underscores an essential truth: the social side of sustainability encompasses the wellbeing of employees and the communities dependent on these businesses throughout their existence. Treating this aspect as a core concern rather than an ancillary issue has never been more vital.

Some producers are genuinely dedicated to people-first approaches. Julia Zuccardi, representing Bodega Santa Julia in Mendoza, shares her grandmother's wisdom: “To make a good wine, you need good people.”

The family took tangible steps to enhance the lives of their workers. Many vineyards are situated in remote areas lacking access to education and healthcare, which prompted the company to build schools for workers' children and adult education centers that offer qualifications leading to wage increases.

Moreover, providing nurseries and daycare for employees was seen as essential. Zuccardi recalls, “My grandmother knew we needed to make it easier for women to balance professional life and family life.” This commitment means women don’t have to choose between their careers and motherhood, allowing the company to retain talented female workers.

It's a strong business strategy too. With nearly 1,200 employees and producing around 25 million liters annually across Santa Julia and Zuccardi Valle de Uco, their scale enables meaningful investments in their workforce. Yet, it's notable that these efforts stem from a cultural foundation established when the family business was much smaller. Zuccardi asserts, “We can do sustainability at this scale because it’s part of the company’s culture.”

This ethos is echoed across the Andes. The Caupolicán cooperative in Chile's Maule region, founded by women, benefits from Fairtrade premiums. These funds have supported community initiatives like a primary school library and university scholarships for local families.

Viña Undurraga also emphasizes social responsibility. The winery's approach to social sustainability integrates people, land, and heritage. In the case of their Terroir Hunter Araucania Pinot Noir, they source grapes from indigenous Mapuche families. They compensate these growers fairly and support vineyard management while allowing families to sell wine under their own label, acknowledging their heritage.

No universal blueprint exists for how wineries should bolster the communities they impact, but recognizing the range of effects—positive and negative, social and environmental—is a fundamental responsibility for all wine producers, large and small.

The onus also lies on the supply chain, including distributors and retailers, to engage with producers on these crucial issues. These stakeholders should advocate for transparency, equipping consumers with knowledge to make informed choices about the wines they purchase.

Sip to Make a Difference

Bodega Santa Julia, Family Reserve Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2024

For those in search of a full-bodied red, Bodega Santa Julia, Family Reserve Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2024 (£11 Waitrose) offers a delightful combination of blueberry fruit layered over plum, vanilla, and spice, all culminating in a smooth finish. This wine not only reflects the ethical practices of its producer but also stood out as one of only 35 wines to receive a Value Gold recognition in the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards.

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