Tom, a 24-year-old Australian winemaker, shares insights on a standout Loire Chenin Blanc and the unique techniques behind its production.
Meet Tom, a 24-year-old Australian winemaker currently refining his craft in the northern Rhône, France, as part of his oenology master’s thesis at a Côte-Rôtie domaine.
His appreciation for wines characterized by acidity, tension, and savory notes drives his passion. Among his favorites is Loire Chenin Blanc, a style he finds embodies these traits perfectly.
Tom recalls a transformative wine experience when a sommelier friend introduced him to a bottle that left a lasting impression. It was during his time in Montpellier, where he first encountered this exquisite vino.
Uncovering Etienne Bodet
The reveal of the wine’s origin was a two-part process: first, the winemaker Etienne Bodet, and then the revelation of his impressive background at Clos Rougeard, where he honed his skills for three years before establishing his own label in 2020.
While Clos Rougeard is renowned for its Saumur-Champigny Cabernet Francs, Bodet's venture includes a lesser-known Saumur Blanc from Brèze. This wine compares favorably to premier white Burgundies concerning style and vinification methods.
However, Bodet's offerings stand apart, showcasing their roots without mimicking Burgundy. They possess the élevage, lees influence, and polish of fine wine, yet maintain an unmistakable Loire profile, marked by chalkiness, salinity, and a subtle austerity.
Etienne Bodet, Clos Durandière, Graippeaux, Saumur, Loire 2023
Grape: Chenin Blanc
Alc: 12%
Available: €60, IDealwine / £79, Sip Wines, Parched Wine
Tom’s Insights: The journey begins in the vineyard with organically and biodynamically farmed old massal-selection Chenin vines, around 70 years old, growing on Montreuil-Bellay's chalk and tuffeau soils.
The term “massal” refers to the propagation method, where cuttings are sourced from the estate’s historical plants, leading to a diverse genetic profile and ensuring no two rows are identical.
In the cellar, minimal intervention rules the process: indigenous yeast is used, along with a meager total of 16mg/L of sulphur, and no filtration takes place.
The wine undergoes 22 months of aging in used 400L barriques, sourced exclusively from Clos Rougeard, the very place where Bodet cultivated his expertise.
Being the fifth generation of his family to manage this land, Bodet’s approach includes an ageing cellar intentionally designed to experience the elements, avoiding climate control to let the wines endure seasonal shifts.
A Memorable Wine Occasion
This experience impacted Tom profoundly. After his first-year project in Graves near Bordeaux, he decided to purchase another bottle of this Chenin Blanc to share with his cohort as they parted ways for their respective stages.
His tasting notes describe a pale gold wine with a subtle haze. The initial nose presents intriguing notes of struck match and popcorn, transitioning to parmesan and a zesty hint of preserved lemon.
On the palate, flavors of miso and lemon curd emerge alongside a waxy texture balanced by salinity and vibrant acidity. A gripping phenolic texture leads to a clean yet complex finish marked by bitter almond and savory, umami undertones.
This wine reflects seriousness without sacrificing drinkability, striking a delicate balance between tension and elegance — a combination he finds irresistible.
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