Exploring the Unique Characteristics of PGI Attika Wines

The most widely grown grape in Greece is Savatiano, flourishing in the PGI Attika region, where four distinct microclimates shape its expression. Nestled just a half-hour from the historic Acropolis, this area boasts 7,000 growers and 70-year-old dry-farmed bush vines, making it a discovery worth undertaking.

Unlike traditional wine appellations that follow a hierarchical structure, Attika defies conventions. It presents one comprehensive name that encapsulates its diverse climates, allowing the Savatiano grape to exhibit various faces across the region.

The Appellation

The appellation known as PGI Attiki encompasses the entire region, with vineyards located at altitudes starting from 30 meters above sea level, covering mountainous, semi-mountainous, and lowland areas. The soil here varies significantly, predominantly featuring limestone and calcareous-clay, which naturally limits yields.

Permitting the production of white, red, and rosé wines in styles ranging from dry to sweet, often from sun-dried grapes, PGI Attika is primarily recognized for its crisp, dry white wines.

How the Regional Characteristics Play a Role

Occupying just over 6,200 hectares, PGI Attiki is cultivated by 7,000 growers, averaging under a hectare each. This fragmentation arises from long-standing traditions of inheritance among growers, leading to two key implications. Firstly, individual wineries tend to operate lands situated several kilometers apart with differing soil profiles. Given this reality, the regional name often remains the most honest descriptor of the wine, reflecting the true nature of the product.

Secondly, this historical practice has preserved the region’s oldest vines, as no single owner could justify replacing a block of vine with a new planting, allowing parcels to be cultivated by hand and maintained for generations.

Four Distinct Microclimates

Encircled by the sea, the PGI Attika region benefits from cooling breezes that alleviate summer heat. However, variations in topography result in unique microclimates influenced by proximity to the coastline, altitude, and vineyard orientation.

The eastern sector is the warmest and driest, basking in approximately 2,900 hours of sunlight per year and receiving around 400 to 450 millimeters of rain. In contrast, the western areas, situated between the Saronic and Corinthian gulfs, are slightly cooler, with vineyards climbing Mount Geraneia to elevations of 700 meters. On the slopes of Kithaironas in the north-west, one can observe a continental climate influence. Northern Attica, particularly around Parnitha and Penteli, stands out for its cooler temperatures, with higher altitudes reaching 400 meters, leading to cooler nights and shorter autumn days.

Within this small geographical footprint, the climate intensity varies rather than the type itself, dictated by the sea's distance, vineyard elevation, and direction of exposure.

Two Distinct Wines from One Grape

Sampling Savatiano from different locales offers a clear illustration of the region's diversity. Wines sourced from Keratea are often characterized by their minerality and herbaceous qualities. In contrast, those from Stamata exhibit a lean, elegant profile marked by high acidity and moderate alcohol content.

Savatiano accounts for nearly 5,500 of the 6,200 hectares farmed in PGI Attika, commonly grown in fertile, irrigated soils. However, when cultivated on ancient gobelet-trained bush vines established in the late 1950s on poorer limestone without irrigation, the yields shrink to 28 to 35 hectoliters per hectare, leading to wines that are concentrated, mineral-laden, and capable of aging for a decade or more. Interestingly, the capacity for these wines to age is not a modern rediscovery; a vintage Savatiano was even bottled after eight years in 1935, with a significant production run of 200,000 units.

Additional Varietals in the Appellation

Other grape varieties like Malagousia, Assyrtiko, and Roditis, though less prevalent, play a notable qualitative role, with Assyrtiko gaining traction. While Attica isn't typically known for red wine production, it does allow for the growth of varieties such as Agiorgitiko, Limniona, Mandilaria, Mouchtaro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, and Syrah, leading to the production of medium- to full-bodied dry reds and vibrant rosés.

In essence, PGI Attiki is a singular appellation offering a rich tapestry of flavors produced from four expressions of one Mediterranean climate. With a unique variety of Savatiano that behaves differently based on its environment and a stock of resilient 70-year-old bush vines, it remains an exciting region to explore, all within a brief drive of Athens.